Pompeii has no season in the sense that a vineyard or a national park has one. The houses that are open in February are the houses that are open in August, at the same price, and nothing you came to see disappears. What the calendar changes is the physical experience of covering the site: how hard the sun is on paving that holds heat, whether the basalt is wet under your feet, how many people are in the same narrow doorway, and how many hours the gate leaves you.
Winter, December to February. The emptiest months and the shortest days: 4,453, 3,617 and 4,919 visitors a day in December, January and February 2024, against 16,675 in May. The park runs 09:00 to 17:00 with last entry at 15:30, and the grass grows back between the stones, which is the one time of year the site looks like the overgrown field it was before excavation. Around nine or ten rainy days a month, and highs of 13 to 14 °C, which is comfortable walking weather when it is dry and miserable when it is not.
Spring, March to May. The site greens over and the crowd arrives with it. March is still quiet at about 8,798 visitors a day and still on the short timetable until the 16th. April and May are the two heaviest spring months, and they are not the same month: April averages 98.6 mm of rain across 9.3 days, May 59.0 mm across 6.1. May is the pick of the three for weather and the busiest month of the whole year for company.
Summer, June to August. Dry and hot, and measurably quieter than the shoulder either side of it: 13,690, 14,489 and 13,589 visitors a day against April to May's 15,545 and 16,675. June sits at 26.7 °C and about three rainy days; July and August average 29.9 and 30.3 °C with barely any rain at all. This is also the part of the year the park uses for its evening openings, when a selection of sites stays open into the night on set dates with performances and food. The dates are announced fresh each year, so treat them as something to look up rather than a fixed annual fixture.
Autumn, September to November. September is a second June with more rain and more people. October is easy to misread: 22.1 °C sounds like the perfect compromise, and it arrives with 135.5 mm of rain across 8.5 days, the second-wettest month of the year. October is also when the one genuinely seasonal thing inside the walls happens. The park replanted vines in the ancient plots of Regions I and II, on the ground the Romans used and with the varieties they grew, and the grapes are cut in October; in some years the vines are opened so visitors can watch. Then the timetable shortens on 15 October and November empties the site, from 15,524 visitors a day to 6,329.